Partly cloudy. Low near 50F. Winds light and variable..

Partly cloudy. Low near 50F. Winds light and variable.

Pumpkins own October. By September’s end supermarkets have devoted a shelf to “pumpkin spice” products. Charlie Brown recognized this when in 1966 “It’s the Great Pumpkin” had its TV debut. Back then, pumpkin meant pie and jack-o’-lanterns, period. Even the pie started with canned puree, which tasted more pumpkin-y than the real thing. Decades later, marketing geniuses realized that pumpkin pie spices, not the fruit itself, stoked the craze. Product lines exploded: pumpkin spice yogurt, coffee, cream cheese, cereal, candles, cookies, pudding, doughnuts, Oreos, beer and air freshener.

Despite pictures on some labels, few if any contain pumpkin.

Not a drop. Nary a whiff.

Shameful that spice gets all the glory considering what’s possible with the actual fruit.

Botanically, a fruit bears seeds and develops from a flower, which qualifies pumpkin and other squash. Yet regional/ethnic savory preparations suggest vegetable, while carvings and table decorations featuring exotic turbans and ghostly gray hubbards fulfill the ornamental category.

Americans, spoiled by convenient canned, rarely bother with cutting, cleaning and cooking.

Pity, since pumpkin is a nutrition powerhouse, a vegetarian’s handmaid that soaks up seasonings other than sugar, cinnamon and nutmeg.

Pumpkins, less rarified than dainty pie beauties, originated in Central America, eventually spread to tribes as far north as New England, hence the belief that a pumpkin dish appeared at the first Thanksgiving. It wasn’t pie. Instead, a mixture of milk, eggs, honey or maple syrup was poured into the seeded pumpkin cavity, then baked on hot coals until the flesh was tender and the custard set. This is still possible as an authentic (if messy) Thanksgiving side or dessert.

The purpose here is to divert this autumn emblem into other-than-holiday stereotypes.

Know first that pumpkin is a staple in sweet/savory African mainstays like tuashe and fufu. East Indian restaurants have spurred an interest satisfied by seasonings and ingredients found in the international foods sections of most supermarkets.

But first, wrestling the pumpkin. Don’t attempt anything larger than a medium “pie” pumpkin, about 2 pounds. Place pumpkin on a sturdy cutting board. Twist off the stem. With a long sharp knife carefully cut the pumpkin vertically into eight or more wedges, as though it were a cantaloupe. Scrape away the seeds and webbing with a sharp melon baller. Lay wedges flat on board and trim off rind with a shorter knife; cut wedges crosswise into chunks.

To Westerners, curry is a catch-all describing anything cooked or served in a sauce flavored with “curry powder,” which may contain turmeric, cumin, coriander, fenugreek, pepper, ginger, garlic, chilies, fennel, star anise … possibly more. Indian home cooks make their own, sometimes with secret additions. Curry powder sold in jars can be a pale comparison; flavor fades fast. Natural foods stores with bulk bins usually stock a more potent product, as well as the dozen spices necessary for a house blend.

Pumpkin curry makes an excellent autumn vegetarian entree that can be adapted for meat-eaters by adding broiled chicken thigh meat before serving.  

This beginners’ recipe is impressive at an autumn potluck:

Heat oil over medium heat in a deep skillet. Add cumin seeds and sauté until they start to sizzle. Add ginger, garlic and onion and sauté over low heat until onion is translucent. Add tomato paste and curry powder and sauté just until well-mixed, about 45 seconds. Add salt, cubed potatoes, pumpkin and sauté 10-15 minutes or until tender. Add coconut milk and water, stir gently, let bubble for a few minutes. Cover and let sit up to an hour, to blend flavors. Reheat and serve beside or over jasmine rice; garnish with cilantro leaves.

Note: If using broiled boneless chicken thigh chunks add after pumpkin is soft.

Make curry ahead. Tastes even better the second day.   

Another entry-level preparation to save for Thanksgiving:

Select a pumpkin that will fit snugly into a round oven-safe baking dish. Slice 2-3 inches off top; scrape out seeds and webbing. Prepare a cornbread or herbed stuffing recipe (celery, onion, parsley, sage, melted butter), mixing in a peeled and grated apple and an egg. Pack into cavity. Set stuffed pumpkin into bowl, cover top with foil or lid, bake at 350 degrees for an hour or more, depending on size of pumpkin. Remove foil, test pumpkin with a long blade; flesh should be soft. Return to oven without foil, raise heat to 400 degrees and bake another 15 minutes, until top is crunchy and browned. Scoop out pumpkin and stuffing with a long-handled spoon. 

Excellent with leftover turkey warmed in gravy. 

Contact Deb Salomon at debsalomon@nc.rr.com. 

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